Beach plants tend to develop low and scrubby within their native environment. Don’t expect them to behave in this way when implanted in your garden, however. Without the pressures of the beach environment, like salt spray and winds, their growth habit may be quite different. When creating a beach-themed lawn, choose native plants and you can not go wrong.

Groundcover

A common groundcover you’ll find on beaches is a type of Ceanothus (C. thyrsiflorus repens), hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8a through 10. Tolerant of a wide array of temperatures and soil conditions, it provides delicate blue blooms to your beach-themed garden. Another attractive flowering groundcover to think about is the seaside daisy (Ergeron glaucus). Seaside daisy is tolerant of full sun in cooler areas as well as partial shade where summers get warm. On top of that, it attracts butterflies.

Grasses

Beach grasses are component of any vision of wind-swept sand dunes. Whether you choose to produce grasses that the dominant plant on your beach-themed garden or use them as accent pieces, then you’ll realize that they add the last thematic touch to your garden. Look for seashore bluegrass (Poa macrantha), or any bentgrass, reedgrass or oatgrass to give authenticity to your beach-themed garden.

Shrubs

The baby bear manzanita (Arctostaphylos densiflora x bakeri “Baby Bear”), hardy in USDA zones 7 through 10, is a small rounded shrub, ideal wherever you want a pop of color. It also works well when planted in groups, to form a hedge. Baby bear produces pink blossom clusters and becomes a small hummingbird magnet while in bloom. For a little place to fill, the coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis), growing in USDA zones 5 through 11, is one of the plants that succumbs to the ecological pressures of life in the beach and remains low-growing. In the garden, however, it may grow taller and require pruning to keep it into the size you desire.

Trees

For a touch of the tropical, consider trees. Many palm species do well in colder climates. Think about the California fan palm (Washingtonia filifera), the exact same tree that adorns the Hollywood strip. Hardy in USDA zones 8b through 11, this palm is frost tolerant, requiring little water and hardly any upkeep. It does tend to be somewhat pricey, however. Less expensive, and not quite as tall is that the saw palmetto (Serenoa repens), which enjoys full sun and grows slowly within USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.

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Ornamental grasses are available in hundreds of varieties, with various heights, increase habits, hardiness and leaf color, making them extremely versatile plants that have many uses in a house landscape. Some grass types possess leaf in interesting colours, including several cultivars with leaves at a mild, yellowish-green that looks like the color of fresh limes. All these make excellent additions to borders and beds, especially when mixed with deep-green grasses or vibrant flowering plants.

Japanese Forest Grass

Golden-yellow Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra “Aureola”) is an ornamental grass that reaches a height of 1 to 1 1/2 feet and also an equal spread, forming dense, spreading clumps with gracefully arching, narrow-bladed leaves. The leaves are a yellowish-green with a dark green central vein and green borders. The plants do well in either sun or shade, but the lime-green color of their leaves is accentuated when they are grown in colour. In summertime, the grass produces loose clumps of tiny, yellow-green flowers at the ends of long stems. The variety is reliably hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 5 and over.

Autumn Moor Grass

Autumn moor grass (Sesleria autumnalis) is just a drought-tolerant grass that is flexible to all ground types and prefers cool temperatures and low humidity. It reaches a height of 8 to 12 inches at maturity and has especially narrow lime-green-colored leaves. Its narrow flower stalks are also lime-green and appear in late summer and early fall. Due to its relatively low height, autumn moor grass is a good choice as a ground cover and especially attractive when grown as a mass planting under trees. It’s reliably hardy in USDA zone 5 and over.

Palm Sedge

Palm sedge grass (Carex muskingumensis) is also an easy-to-grow plant indigenous to western North America. It forms dense clumps of erect, 20-inch-tall stems capped by 8-inch-long grass blades at a mild lime-green; its leaves are reminiscent of palm fronds, giving the plant its name. Palm sedge grass spreads slowly by rhizomes and also self-seeds readily. It prefers sun to partial shade and needs moist dirt, also growing nicely in shallow water that is 3 or 4 inches deep. The plant is hardy in zone 4 and above, and is an exceptional selection for stream beds or near other water features.

Zebra Grass

Zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis “Zebrinus”) gets its name from its leaves, which contain horizontal bands of yellow alternating with mild green patches, giving the plant an overall lime-green color when seen from a slight distance. A tall plant, zebra grass may reach a height of 8 feet with a spread of 4 to 6 feet. It does well in sun or partial shade and tolerates heat and humidity. In fall, it produces floral clusters that may last through winter. The plant expands gradually in circumference but maintains a tight clump contour, making it a good choice as a portion of a screen planting or as a specimen plant. It’s hardy in zone 5 and over.

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Clogged septic systems cost homeowners thousands of dollars every year in replacement and repair. Tree roots are often found to be responsible for the congestion, a situation that may be avoided by planting specific types of trees a minimum safe distance from septic tanks and drainage fields. Oak trees are thought to be one of the safest trees to plant in these locations, since their origins systems aren’t as widespread and are far less invasive than those of other species.

Minimum Distance

Oak trees (Quercus spp.) Are one of the few trees that origins are classified as not posing much of a threat to septic systems, drainage fields along with other underground pipes. Still, the evidence detailing oak tree root growth contradicts this theory, as the origins of a mature oak tree may fan out as much as 90 or more feet from its base. Recommended planting distances of 15 feet are geared toward young trees whose origins systems are still developing but do not consider the way in which oak tree roots develop, which would imply a minimal planting distance equal to the tree’s height at maturity. This translates to a distance equal to or greater than 70 feet from a tree that’s 70 feet tall, and this disregards the frequent thinking that a pine tree’s root system normally does not stretch much farther underground than its highest branch width.

Oak Root Development

Oak trees spread by way of acorns that fall from the trees in early autumn in most regions. Under the right conditions, acorns become quickly established in which they drop, sending down a root often within days of coming into contact with the dirt. This original root, or tap root, can travel vertically into the ground to as much as 5 feet prior to the tree’s first leaves begin to develop. The seedling’s energy then shifts to the areas of the plant above the ground, along with the tap root starts sending out side, or posterior, roots that grow horizontally away from the plant. Lateral roots keep growing in this way in search of water and nutrients and are naturally attracted to the sort of very fertile nutrient-rich, dirt normally found near septic tanks and leach fields. Even if a pine tree is supposed to be located a safe distance from a drainage area, there’s absolutely no guarantee that its origins won’t search out its effluents, especially if it is growing in an area that sees little yearly rainfall.

Oak Tree Placement

Oak trees, including bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa), white oak (Quercus alba), and northern red oak (Quercus rubra) are also regarded as low risks to septic systems by some establishments, such as the Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Illinois. Though other types of trees such as willows are natural water seekers and shouldn’t be implanted in the neighborhood of a septic system in any way, trees such as oaks might be considered risks due their increased drought tolerance. Planting oaks at least 50 feet off — or more, if the tree is going to develop into a significant one — in the farthest point of a drain area provides a relatively wide buffer zone, especially in regions that experience adequate rainfall.

Considerations

Oak tree roots should not be trusted to remain in their own planned boundaries even if they are implanted what is thought to be a secure distance from septic systems. Additionally, oak trees can easily be threatened by any kind of root disturbance that includes building too near or above them, moving the dirt over or near them, or attempting to trim any that are protruding through the soil’s surface. Along with being a potential threat to sewage systems, a pine tree’s vulnerability to any kind of disturbance reinforces the need to plan where it goes well in advance of the actual planting, since it will be too late to make any changes once the tree is created other than to cut it down. In short, find oak trees in regions where there is the least likelihood that they will become problematic.

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Steamed, stir-fried, roasted or new, bush beans are a delicious addition to any summertime meal. Domesticated versions of South American plants, they have been selectively bred over time to add cultivars like apartment Italian green, French filet, purple-podded and yellow wax. Self-supporting, easy-to-grow bush beans can achieve about 2 feet in height and produce greatest in soils with the proper pH and sufficient nutrients.

Soil Test

Conduct a soil test in a new or untested garden to determine soil pH and the content of vital nutrients in your garden. While easy test kits are available at most garden centres, sending your soil samples to a professional laboratory gives you a more accurate and complete picture. To gather soil, scrape on the surface free of sticks, stones and other debris. Utilizing a stainless-steel trowel, dig a hole 6 to 8 inches deep and have a soil scraping from the side of hole. Repeat this in at least six distinct spots on your garden, combining the trials together in a clean plastic bucket. Do this a few months before planting — it might take up to four weeks to receive your results back and you need enough time to work in any recommended amendments.

Adjusting pH

Although beans are not overly special about fertility, they don’t prefer a soil pH from the 6 to 6.8 range. This measurement of the soils’ level of acidity or alkalinity affects their wellbeing. If the pH is from the desired variety, plant growth goes down — the beans cannot uptake the nutrients and minerals they need from the soil. In this weakened condition, they are more susceptible to fungus and disease. Most soils in moist, wooded spaces tend toward the acidic variety and need a shot of agricultural lime worked into the soil to increase pH. Ideally, this slow-release soil amendment should be added a few months before planting time.

Nitrogen and Phosphorous

Nitrogen is a vital component in bean’s photosynthesis and leaf development. A deficiency causes yellowing leaves and an overall paleness. But like all beans, legumes possess the capability to make their own nitrogen. Unless your soil test indicates a serious nitrogen deficiency, then avoid adding any to your garden bed. Excess nitrogen ends in boisterous leaf growth at the expense of fruit production. Simply dusting your beans with a seed inoculant at planting time primes them to make as much nitrogen as they need. Phosphorous is just another basic nutrient. It is required for reproduction, cell growth and fruit production. Too little stunts plants and also an excess can add an unwanted bitter flavor. Adhere to the recommendations from your soil test results for any required phosphorous.

Compost

The all-around soil enhancer, compost needs to be a part of the soil improvement plan irrespective of your test results. Two to 3 inches worked to your own beds helps to protect against a soil crust that can inhibit the emergence of tender new bean plants. In addition, it helps to retain moisture, improve drainage and adds beneficial microorganisms. Furthermore, compost suppresses diseases and insects while promoting higher yields.

Growing Tips

This warm-season crop should not be implanted until soil temperatures have been at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2 to 4 inches apart, keeping the soil moist but not soaked throughout the germination period. After plants have fully emerged, thin them to each 4 ins and mulch with straw, wood chips, grass clippings or leaves to keep moisture and moderate soil temperature. Overhead watering encourages leaf disease — use a soaker hose or water at soil level. Planting every 2 weeks extends you season. Pick often to encourage production and plant beans at a new spot each year to discourage any disease buildup.

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